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Post by janesays on Jul 17, 2015 19:50:38 GMT
I am using my Cameo and am trying to create a personalized mug. I am having the hardest time getting my font to cut out correctly. Long story short, here is a pic of how my cuts come out. One without using the mat and one using the mat. My blade is set at a 2. When it's set as 1, it will not cut through the vinyl. My blade hasn't been used much. It's not brand new but it's not overused yet. I hate to do a thicker font. I like this font. I do not want to use a fancy, scripty font. Got any helpful hints for me? Attachments:
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Post by janesays on Jul 17, 2015 20:08:09 GMT
Also, when I lift the vinyl for just the letters to be left on the backing, they slide around and won't stay on the backing. I am so frustrated with it right now!! GAH!
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Post by janesays on Jul 17, 2015 20:29:48 GMT
The letters would not come off the transfer tape easily at all. Finally got them down but tore an "o" and I see that some of the letters will not stay stuck to the cup. What the heck am I doing wrong? I really thought this would be a snap to do. Attachments:
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Post by KikiPea on Jul 17, 2015 20:48:11 GMT
Wow! I'm sorry you're having so many issues. Unfortunately, I have no advice. I've never tried anything but glass and scripty fonts.
I hope you can get it to work!
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Post by janesays on Jul 17, 2015 21:19:24 GMT
Thanks anyways
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naby64
Drama Llama
Posts: 6,433
Jun 25, 2014 21:44:13 GMT
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Post by naby64 on Jul 18, 2015 2:29:53 GMT
I don't have any advice. What vinyl are you using? I just made a vinyl wall thingie for my DD apt room. It cut just OK. It was silver Silhouette vinyl. Got it up on the wall and it was curling off within 15 minutes.
She wants something in silver for her room. I grabbed some of the Recollections silver metallic vinyl to try. I have heard that the Silhouette vinyl just isn't all that sticky. Better to order the Oracal vinyl online.
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Post by Basket1lady on Jul 18, 2015 3:30:56 GMT
Are you using Silhouette vinyl? I've found that it just doesn't stick to the release sheet. When I cut, the letters pull up and then the blade cuts over the free floating letters. You can call Silhouette and request for the vinyl to be replaced. Hopefully they have fixed the problem.
I buy my vinyl from Amazon, from a company called Craft E Vinyl. It cuts like a dream and I can buy it 20 feet or more at a time.
One thing I will say is that each machine cuts differently. I cut my vinyl on a 1. You said you tried with a mat and without. I'm assuming that you tried it on a 1 and a 2, both on the mat and not. But really, I think you got a batch of the bad vinyl. Vinyl usually really is the easiest stuff to cut. Don't give up!
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Post by crazy4scraps on Jul 18, 2015 3:55:08 GMT
I'm not familiar with the Cameo at all, I have a Pazzles Pro and a Silver Bullet, but I've cut tons of vinyl. When working with vinyl, you want the blade to just barely be out and the pressure set so the blade is only going through the vinyl and not into the top layer of backing paper underneath or it will be a real pain to get the paper off the back. If your blade isn't going through the vinyl set on 1, you may have to bump up the cutting pressure little by little until it is going all the way through cleanly. It may help to try a brand new, sharp blade too. It should cut through the vinyl like butter. Mat or no mat, it shouldn't make a difference, but I have an easier time cutting smaller pieces when they're on a mat.
The transfer tape is another issue entirely. Most of the decorator vinyls have a matte finish which makes the transfer tape not want to stick to the front face of the vinyl to pick it up. I've tried no less than five kinds of tape and the only one that even remotely works is a brand called R Tape. I got a roll from a friend and need to find a source for it in a wider roll for bigger projects.
On a related note, if you are trying to use a decorator vinyl (says Oracal 631 on the back) for a project like a coffee mug that will be washed repeatedly, you need to know it won't be permanent on that surface especially if the recipient will be putting it through a dishwasher. That vinyl is designed for using on painted walls so it can eventually be safely removed without damaging the wall. You will need a vinyl rated for outdoor use (such as Oracal 651, which has a shiny surface and a stronger adhesive) for something like that.
Probably much more than you asked for, but there it is!
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Post by Basket1lady on Jul 18, 2015 4:05:44 GMT
I forgot to address the transfer tape. My favorite is this one. The tack is strong enough to lift the vinyl off the backing paper, but will actually release the letters from the project. I like the clear transfer tapes, as it's easier to line up letters. I do theatre sets a lot and the placement is key to get right! If the tape seems too sticky for your project, you can place the transfer tape over a cotton shirt. It will have enough fuzz to cover some of the transfer tape's tackiness. Transfer tape
i don't have a problem using an old blade. I'm sure my blade is at least a year old and I use it a lot for theatre and then for all my DS's graduation stuff, football, senior gifts, etc. Now if your blade has the tip broken off, that another thing. But you have some good cuts on most of the letters and the cuts look clean, so I'm guessing that isn't the problem. Every now and then, I find a mat vs no mat to make a difference if I'm having problems getting the vinyl to cut. It looks like you need the blade at a 2 and I way to get the vinyl to stick to the release paper. I'm still think you have a bad batch of vinyl. Also, make sure your blade is locked in place after you change the depth setting. And you need to change it on the blad itself, not in the computer program. For the computer program, it really doesn't matter what you have the blade set at, as it's the physical change of the blade depth that is the only thing that controls the depth.
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