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Post by annaintx on Jun 29, 2014 14:34:35 GMT
A few questions:
1. So we adopted (on a trial basis, he can go back to his foster home) a 3.5 year old white german shepard. He is very well mannered in the house--knows basic commands, is great with my 5 year old DD (but he's never left alone with her). Our main issue is that he keeps trying to "play" with my 17 year old cat. The cat isn't having it, and has swatted and hissed at Thor (the dog), but Thor thinks it's a game. If he can't get along with the cat he has to go back. I refuse to make my cat live in one room for the rest of his (albeit) short life. I just don't think that's fair.
Any suggestions on how to help them at least co-habitate.
2. When I walk Thor, he pulls badly on the leash. He will sit when I tell him to while walking, is great when I stop to talk to neighbors, and he was really great when I stopped to talk to a neighbor who had a dog with him. I kept us on the other side of the street, but Thor did *great*. I'm really impressed with how well behaved and well mannered he is. But I need help with walking him.
Thanks!!!!
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Post by scraphappyinjax on Jun 29, 2014 14:38:56 GMT
2. When I walk Thor, he pulls badly on the leash. He will sit when I tell him to while walking, is great when I stop to talk to neighbors, and he was really great when I stopped to talk to a neighbor who had a dog with him. I kept us on the other side of the street, but Thor did *great*. I'm really impressed with how well behaved and well mannered he is. But I need help with walking him. Thanks!!!! What kind of leash are you using? If it's a retractable leash a German Shepherd is too large for it. I use a choke collar along with a leather lease on my Labrador. The choke collar doesn't hurt him but keeps him from pulling away from me. Very easy to heel train with this.
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Post by cropaholicnora on Jun 29, 2014 14:39:26 GMT
Thor sounds like a gorgeous dog and intelligent, too. I hope you'll be able to train him to do what works for you. The advice I was given for pulling dogs is that every time they start to pull, you turn and walk in the other direction. What I usually do is tell mine, "No pulling!" and stop until they behave. Consistency is important because it seems like if you give them an inch, they'll backslide a mile.
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Post by lillieleigh on Jun 29, 2014 14:44:44 GMT
I too would use the choke collar. I only would on a large chested dog. I think he needs to be separated from the cat and reintroduced in very small visits. Also a firm NO when he tries to engage the cat and a small reward if he succeeds. Don't give up on a loving GS. They are wonderful dogs. They just need a lot of socializing, positive training , firmness and, of course, lots of love! P.S. Great advice given above!
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Post by Miss Ang on Jun 29, 2014 14:45:17 GMT
If they are not aggressively fighting, I would let it be. The cat will come to realize that the dog is there to stay and figure out the best way to deal with the situation.
Re: pulling, I was taught in training that you should come to a stop and say "NO" every time they pull. Don't start walking again until they stop pulling. When they are walking well and not pulling, offer a frequent "Good job!" and the occasional treat. It doesn't take long for them to get it.
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jager14
Junior Member
Posts: 53
Location: Central east coast Florida
Jun 28, 2014 10:32:14 GMT
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Post by jager14 on Jun 29, 2014 14:54:28 GMT
Don't have other pets so no advice there except repetition. As to pulling and walking, it is very crucial to have correct collar and leash when training. I use choke collar but only correct when needed and have to be sure to have it on right so it's not too tight. I walk in a square pattern in yard and say heel repeatedly. Then mix it up after a while. Sit when you stop. Thor not you They are great dogs. Hope it works out.
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Belle
Pearl Clutcher
Posts: 4,309
Jun 28, 2014 4:39:12 GMT
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Post by Belle on Jun 29, 2014 14:56:27 GMT
We always used a choke collar for our GSD when walking.
As far as the cat, could you keep the collar and leash on the dog inside the house? Loop the leash handle around a close by door knob so Thor can move about a little in one given room where you are but the cat has free reign? Eventually, the goal would be to not have to have the leash around the door knob. We also used baby gates a lot for various situations - room with the cat food, guests coming over (Thor sounds like he has better manners that our dog) etc. of course, you could also keep the choke collar on Thor and introduce the cat - when he tries to "play" pull back with the leash and give a firm NO. Eventually, he will learn the cat is pretty boring and to leave her alone.
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Post by miominmio on Jun 29, 2014 15:11:07 GMT
If he gets a deep scratch on his nose, he'll learn. I have twice introduced an adult dog to my (older) cats, and the dogs (one year old labs, so extremely playful) learned pretty quick that the cats won't play.
As for pulling the leash, I chose a halter instead of a choke collar, both dogs pulled once and never again. Some claim choke collars (or collars in general) may cause injury to their necks, so as soon as I found an alternative, I chose that. With a halter, they will get the pressure on their nose, not neck. It's important to let the dog understand that the pressure they feel is because they pull, so don't tug on the leash as a punishment.
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Post by BeckyTech on Jun 29, 2014 15:20:59 GMT
I'm in the middle of training classes and our trainer taught us a cool trick for dogs that pull. This YouTube video demonstrates how to loop the leash around their belly. There is a lady in class with a newly-adopted full-grown GS that pulled something awful and she said it works like magic! The trainer said it works because it is uncomfortable to have pressure on their belly. As far as the cat, honestly, it is just going to take some time. It's not going to happen in one weekend, but the dog will eventually figure it out. In the meantime, you may want to consider a dog gate with a cat door. ETA: Another thing that works with a dog who pulls is a backpack with a couple of small water bottles in it. Emily used to pull something awful and I saw that on a Dog Whisperer episode: give them a job. She loved having a job and would look at me more and hardly ever pulled when I put that on her.
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Post by annaintx on Jun 29, 2014 15:47:33 GMT
These are great suggestions. Thank you! I have a former student who is a dog trainer, and I've sent her an email, too. We will see...we are starting to get attached to Thor. He really is so, so well behaved and so good with my daughter--whoever had him before did a great job with teaching him the basics and with socialization. If he would leave Tigger alone, I think we'll be his forever family.
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Post by annaintx on Jun 29, 2014 16:20:12 GMT
GypsyGirl, thanks for those ideas with the cat. We just tried again and I swear the dog is lunging at the cat. The problem is Tigger is naturally a scaredy cat and keeps retreating. If he'd just stand his ground...I keep trying to get calm and stay that way but I am terrified my baby is going to get eaten, LOL. Or not LOL.
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Grom Pea
Pearl Clutcher
Posts: 2,944
Jun 27, 2014 0:21:07 GMT
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Post by Grom Pea on Jun 29, 2014 16:51:46 GMT
My vet recommended the prong collar over the choke collar as they get points of pressure and stop pulling versus putting all the force in their wind pipe. Also my Shepard mix has a smaller head than her neck so she can drop a regular collar by shaking her head. We haven't had to use the prong collar in years but she just dropped her leash this week, bit she's old and not going anywhere :-)
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Post by ctpea on Jun 29, 2014 17:08:56 GMT
this is the leash our trainer recommended. we had been using a prong collar but our large dog didn't respond well to it and it never corrected the behavior. We put this leash on and it was remarkable. www.ruffwear.com/Just-a-Cinch-Rope-Dog-Leash?sc=2&category=15
As for your other pet - training, training, training. Don't give up on the GS, they are very smart and very trainable. Good luck!!
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Post by jojam on Jun 29, 2014 17:19:53 GMT
I second a 'halter' type collar for the dog. I tried all the other suggestions above, and I'm pretty sure eventually Lucy would have decapitated herself with a choke collar. She quickly learned she couldn't pull or spin wearing the halti. Walks became fun and my arm wasn't sore from the thousands of quick yanks Lucy didn't care one bit about.
As for the cat, no suggestions. I've never had a cat.
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Post by *Shannon on Jun 29, 2014 17:31:51 GMT
Regarding a new dog with an older cat... our situation is a little different in that our dog is a Shih Tzu, but the same principal applies. Lu wants to play with our 20 yr old cat, O.C. so badly, but O.C.'s not interested. At all. It took a couple of weeks, and quite a few swats on the nose, for Lu to get it but she pretty much leaves O.C. alone now. It just takes time and a few scratches. Lu does still try to play with her from time to time, and gets really excited around her occasionally, but a hiss and death stare calms her right down. They actually really enjoy being in the back yard together now. They take turns following each other around, finding new smells.
As long as there is no aggression from the dog, I think you should just let them be. They'll work it out.
I hope you're able to work out the pulling, too. We're still working on that with Lu.
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Post by gmcwife1 on Jun 29, 2014 18:10:01 GMT
We have a 2 yr old GSD with a very high prey drive and a declawed rescue Persian. They live together peacefully for the most part. We have two baby gates, one in the hallway that has been there for years. Its a swing type so it can stay either open or closed. We also have a cheapie short baby gate across my scraproom door. The cat's food and litter box is in my room. He drinks out of the dog water bowl in the kitchen. Nita does chase the cat on occasion, but she knows leave it and the cat isn't too afraid of her. The cat can often be found laying spread eagle in the hallway so he has no fear of either dog For the pulling, our other dogs are sled dogs We have always done the stop and make them wait to get them to stop pulling. The collar we have for our GSD is like a choke chain but is made of cloth not chain. It's a training collar that she always wears. Make sure you have the slip type collars in the correct position right behind their ears or you're just cutting off their air/windpipe
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Post by annaintx on Jun 30, 2014 3:03:40 GMT
Thanks so much, everyone! One of my former students is a dog trainer and she is coming over tomorrow. Yipppee!! She says that it's possible that they won't get along and to be prepared for that, but we'll see. I'm cautiously hopeful. The cat is stressed out and not eating and if he doesn't relax ASAP it will impact his health. I really appreciate all the help/advice.
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Post by Zee on Jun 30, 2014 3:35:43 GMT
I hope you get some good I input from the trainer. I personally would not put my 17 year old cat through that kind of stress, and if the dog didn't learn to leave kitty alone immediately I'd have to give up on the idea of a dog until after kitty is gone. We had a yellow lab with our three cats but she always tried to give them a very wide berth, right from the beginning, so we never had any issues. German Shepherds often have a high prey drive that could make it difficult for them to get along without a lot of training and vigilance on your part, and a lot of stress on the cat.
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Post by Basket1lady on Jun 30, 2014 3:59:04 GMT
The pulling issue: You can try several different kinds of leashes and collars. There are chain choke collars, collars with prongs, a nightingale collar, harness collars, gentle leaders... See what recommendations your trainer has tomorrow. We have a lab and use a nightingale collar, which is a web collar similar to a choke chain. But labs can be easier to train and they are usually more gentle. And I've had Emma since she was a puppy and we taught her not to tug the first week we had her. And our lab is only 60 lbs. I use the "wait" command if Emma starts walking ahead of me. I have a friend who has a HUGE lab that came to them as an older dog with some bad habits, including pulling. They use a harness collar and the mom can pull the dog's front feet off the ground with it, which usually settles it. I've seen gentle leaders used with success, too. The lead attaches to the nose, so if the dog pulls, their nose is pulled back towards you. I've never used one, so check out what the cons of the system.
Really, GSDs are smart dogs who can be trained quite well, but they can be very protective of their home and especially, their people. The best advice I can give you is to find a GOOD teacher (not a Petsmart teacher, although good teachers can teach at Petsmart) and use the trainer a lot. You want your GSD under complete control and they are a dog that can do as they please easily. You need a trainer more to teach you how to handle the dog than the dog needs to learn how to walk on a leash. One will follow the other!
I have little advice about the cat, as I've never owned a cat. But for my dogs, a good swipe across the nose by the cat usually sends them cowering. Do you know anyone with a clawed younger cat? You could use the younger cat to teach your GSD a few manners. My brother and SIL use a gate for their cats and dog. The cats can get away through the bars of the gate, but the dog can't follow the cat. They also used a special collar in the beginning. The dog wears the collar and there is a device you plug into the wall. The device emits a signal that activates the collar if the dog comes within the radius of the device. That would give the cats a safe room to hang out in.
Good luck! And you know the rule...we need a picture!
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Post by stephofalltrades on Jun 30, 2014 4:20:51 GMT
I don't think anyone has mentioned the Gentle Leader yet. Google it. I really don't care for the prong collars and have had dogs that will just continue to pull and gag with choke collars which can cause serious esophageal injury. The Gentle leader goes in a figure 8 around the doggs muzzle and neck, it crosses underneath and thats where the leash attaches. The way its set up, when the dog pulls, its head is pulled directly down. My aunt who has fibrmyalgia and shoulder issues dog sits for extra money and uses these with many of her clients to keep from injuring herself. They learn pretty quickly, too. They arent hurt in any way, but can't run forward while looking at the ground.
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Post by momof3pits on Jun 30, 2014 5:13:40 GMT
Unless either the dog or cat is being injured, I would let them navigate the new living situation and get used to each other. If it gets to the point where the cat is seeming upset and not just annoyed, then I would begin correcting the dog to leave the cat alone. It might seem to you like this should have been plenty of time for them to get acquainted, but we just don't know.
As for the pulling, please do not use a choke collar. Do some reading on how easily those darn things can injure or do damage to the throat and neck. Get either a harness or a head halter and every time the dog pulls, stay no and completely stop or turn directions. I think you will be amazed at what a difference the proper harness alone will make.
Good luck and congrats on the new member of your family!
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Post by red88 on Jul 1, 2014 3:45:34 GMT
Invest in a halter type collar that won't pull on his neck. I've had my German for 4 years, & the halter was a must have. He behaves really well. Best dog ever. German's are smart & should adapt nicely. The stopping & going the other direction is good, works like a charm. Best of luck & a pic of your cute pup would be awesome!
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Post by kluski on Jul 1, 2014 3:48:29 GMT
We had several trial dogs with us before we decided. I know rescue personnel will say give it a week but I knew within 48 hrs sometimes less that it wasn't a good match. We found the right one eventually.
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